The food: pizza in New York and Toronto
While in New York recently, I tried out the newish East village branch of highly ranked Brooklyn pizzeria Motorino.
I couldn’t resist the excellent value of the $12 Prix Fixe two course lunch, so I ordered the Margherita pizza and a salad that turned out to be an impeccably fresh mixture of lettuces and herbs.
The Margherita pizza (shown up top) had a nicely puffy and blistered cornicione, but the main part tasted bland, kind of like the Margherita pizza I had at Pizzeria Libretto in Toronto, which made me think maybe Margherita pizza just isn’t my thing, and so I should give Pizzeria Libretto another try.
I’ve been back to Pizzeria Libretto a few times now and tried the duck confit and pear pizza, shown here:
and the wild mushroom one (not shown), both of which I liked more than the Margherita, thanks to the combination of the Neapolitan-style blistered, chewy but light crusts, and the tangy cheeses deployed on them.
In my new estimation then, Pizzeria Libretto’s pizzas are better-tasting than pizzas at Terroni in Toronto, though they still don’t reach the level of Neapolitan pizza excellence attained by Company in New York.
On my most recent visit to Company, I had the still amazing stracciatella pizza again and I cadged a few pieces from E of that day’s pizza special – which featured brussel sprouts, lardons and chestnuts (see it and its impressive cornichione just above). It was also amazing and delicious, in a hearty and crunchy way that was very different from but made a great complement to the soft, melty texture of the cheese-centric stracciatella.
Lest I go a day without pizza in some form or other while in New York, I stopped in on my way out of the city at the Sullivan Street Bakery to sample slices of the pizza zucchini and pizza patate.
These thin crust, snack-size slices, eaten room temperature at the tiny counter inside the bakery, were different yet again (how versatile is the mind of Jim Lahey!), but they were scrumptious in their own crispy, (good) oily way, and definitely worth going back for the next time I’m in New York.