Belly Up to the Globe Earth Bar, Boys & Girls

The food: brunch at Globe Earth

The story:

On a dreary Sunday, when E and I wanted brunch on our way to see a dreary movie, but didn’t feel like lining up, we strolled into Globe Earth, at 1055 Yonge Street, a newish restaurant that was lauded in Toronto Life’s recent best restaurant roundup, lies adjacent to the western end of South Rosedale, and outfits its wait staff in Tshirts printed with the oddly punctuated lowercase slogan, “think global. eat local.”

There was no line and the house seemed about two-thirds full when we arrived at noon, but a pleasant waiter regretted to inform us that without reservations, we would have to sit at the bar. We bellied up to it, sat, and ordered “eggs benny however you want it” ($13) which for me was with Cumbrae peameal bacon, and for E, with smoked trout. I liked the sound of the orange braised beans ($6) listed on the menu as “extras,” so I ordered them too.

Though there was some confusion about who should serve the bar customers, all 5 of the wait staff who offered us drinks and to take our order were gracious and apologetic, and our eggs, generously dappled with a smooth, rich, lemony “100 mile organic egg” Hollandaise sauce, came quickly and were cooked perfectly. The menu promised and delivered herbed buttermilk biscuits under the eggs, and we were served golden fried slices of fingerling potatoes that in no way resembled the advertised hash, but we liked them, so that was all good.

The orange-scented braised beans – which were more al dente and less goopy than the maple syrup beans I make at home, and which contained chunks of no doubt locally raised bacon – helped cut the richness of the eggs benny and potatoes, though I wished that a handful of green salad had garnished the egg plate as well, to serve that same function.

Half an hour after we’d come in, the largish space was full of customers young, middle-aged and older, and we were finished eating and ready to belly down from the bar and head out, feeling semi-virtuous about having eaten locally, semi-guilty about consuming all that animal fat, and unsure about the whole “think global” thing, but happy nonetheless.

P.S. I looked for a Youtube clip of Tammy Grimes or Debbie Reynolds singing the song “Belly Up to the Bar Boys” from The Unsinkable Molly Brown but couldn’t find one, alas. So if you know it please sing it, loudly, now.

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